JEEVAJALAM

A contemporary take on Telia Rumal

The Telia Rumal, derived from the Telugu words "telia"- oil and "rumal"- handkerchief, is a textile craft which uses resist dyeing of the weft ikat and double ikat weaving where yarns are treated with sesame oil. Originated in Chirala, it holds a significant presence in Andhra Pradesh's Ikat tradition.

THE BRIEF

The process of ikkat itself is a labor-intensive, mathematically precise, and time-consuming endeavor, demanding attention to detail.Throughout this project, my process was to respectfully bend the norms of Telia Rumal weaving, seeking to bridge the gap between tradition and modernity. By incorporating innovative design elements, I aimed to enhance the craft's aesthetic value while preserving its intrinsic heritage. This was also a step towards reviving the dying craft.

MOODBOARD

During the early 1930s, the Telia Rumal faced a decline in exports as a result of imitations produced through large-scale printing. In response to this challenge, weavers adapted their approach by introducing new and larger motifs, deviating from the traditional ones that included lions, elephants, birds, and flowers.

For my designs, I took insects as my inspiration in the form of single large scale motifs. Within these motifs, there are smaller motifs which are part of the traditional Telia designs. Only warp Ikat was explored due to time constraints and available skillset.

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PROCESS

THE TELIA RUMAL